Nintendo Switch Durability Test!! – Will it survive?

The Nintendo Switch. This is the most recent, full fledged gaming
console from Nintendo. And this all grey unit is the one lucky enough
to end up on my desk… with me. Its time to see what this thing is made of. Lets see if this system will be able to last
the next 5 or 6 years until the next Nintendo system comes along and takes its place. Lets get Started! [Intro] Now, normally I test cell phones, BUT this
device is meant to be portable, which means its fair game for my durability tests. I think its better that I test the durability
of a device on purpose, so you wont have to find out on accident. Ill tell you what to avoid and watch out for. I always start my durability tests with a
scratch test on the screen. I use a set of Mohs Hardness picks that tell
me what the screen is made of. If its plastic, it will scratch at a level
3. If its glass, like most cell phones it will
scratch at a 5 or a 6. But if its sapphire, like we see on some watches,
it will scratch at a level 8 or 9. And if Nintendo made their screen out of diamonds…
it will scratch at a level 10. Unfortunately for us though this Switch isn’t
made out of diamonds… Its plastic, and it scratches at a level 3. Most smart phones have a glass screen because
cell phones design to constantly be constantly rubbing around in your pocket all the time. I assume Nintendo decided to use a plastic
screen because A) Its cheaper. B) its not in your pocket all the time, and C) this is a family console, played mostly
by kinds. (And kids at Heart) and a plastic screen definitely
wont ever get cracked if it accidentally gets dropped, and glass would. So its a valid, cost effective, trade off,
and in this case, I’m OK with the plastic. BUT as you can see from my key marks, it WILL
get scratched up if you just toss it in your backpack or purse. So a screen protector or a case is definitely
a good idea. Ill link some good protectors in the video
description. On either side of the device we have what
Nintendo is calling the ‘Joy-Con Controller’. And we can tell by the sound of my razor blade
that these are made out of plastic. The joy con, Joystick has a super thick rubber
coating around the top. With how thick and strong it is I can tell
It’ll take years of playing for it to actually wear out with normal use. Even with me deliberately trying to pull off
the sliced portion, it was staying attached pretty well. So far so good. Here is something I thought was really cool. The top buttons are made of plastic as well
BUT if you look close you can see that the letters on these buttons are not printed,
or screened into place. They are literally injected all the way through
the button. So for you die hard gamers that have had the
letters rub off your keyboard, or joysticks with time… that will literally never happen
on this Nintendo switch because the letters ARE the button. Thumbs up for that. Along the top of the switch near the.. headphone
jack we still have a solid plastic exterior layer. And even along the back of the device, there
is no ear splitting sound of metal on metal when I carve into the switch body. If you are one of the few who can recognize
this symbol… leave a comment and tell me where its from. It has to do with the force. And im not talking Star Wars. There are a pair of symmetrical vents on the
bottom of the device, which are probably for the stereo speakers, or heat dissipation. We’ll find out for sure when I do my full
tear-down. The holes are covered by a thin vinyl layer
which is actually surprisingly easy to tear, so if you ever need to clean these out, be
careful. The kickstand is also made from plastic. Its attachment to the Nintendo switch is pretty
weak sauce. My first time opening it up and it popped
right off… The good news though is that it pops right
back into place very easy over and over again. I did this several times to make sure it was
still solid, and it didn’t get any weaker with each removal. So its probably designed this way.. but that
also makes it easy to loose as well. And, well, It covers the SD card slot so try
and keep track of it. It is important. I know a few of you have already thought ‘Well
Ill just cover up all that plastic with a skin’. Well… Dbrand, a company that makes protective skins,
said that the particular plastic that is being used on the switch is not compatible with
skins; The plastic gets physically destroyed by the skin, Which is pretty odd. You should probably avoid putting a skin on
it for now, and use a case or sheath instead. Now normally I’m able to tell what kind of
display a device has by applying a little bit of heat. An IPS display turns off, Amoled burns white. BUT the plastic layer over this 720p Nintendo
Switch display is super thick, and never let the heat reach the actual display. The exterior plastic did reach its melting
point after about 15 seconds though. Link was not too happy with me. BUT everything still functions 100 percent
so far. Even if the screen were to break, it should
still be able to output to a TV like any normal console would with this docking station. The dock allows the switch to play on your
TV at 1080p which is a bit higher resolution than the built in screen. That screen is 720. You just Just slide it in, and the USB C allows
it to dock immediately. There is one large flaw with this dock though,
and thats the large plastic runners inside the docking station that press right up against
the screen. So every time you dock your console, the dock
will rub against the side of your display. Plastic on plastic can still cause damage,
or scrapes to the screen. There have already been reports of scratched
screens. Luckily its not on the visible part of the
display, just that thick black bezel between the display and the side controllers, so its
not a big deal if it does get scratched a little here and there. But Once again, a thin screen protector would
solve this issue 100%. I would say a screen protector is pretty mandatory
on this console. Remember Ill link some in the video description. As you know the switch is pretty modular,
you can play with the little joystick niblits attached the the screen like you’ve seen me
doing, you can pull them off and play with them detached, The third way you can use them
is to attach them to this little grip that turns both nibliets into one larger hand held
controller. The new symbol I just drew is a little more
difficult…so let me know in the comments if you know where This one is from. Muggles probably wont understand. After joining the joy con controllers into
the joycon grip. I can give it an initial stress test. A basic flex in all directions reveals that
its pretty darn sturdy for being a bunch of plastic parts stuck together with thin little
rails. I don’t see any immediate failure points on
this controller unless you are intentionally trying to break it. Everything is still totally functional…..
so far… One interesting thing about the controllers
is the little LED light built in on the inside. When you slide the controller into the grip,
it transfers the light upward shining out of the grip itself. This is done with tiny little mirrors inside
of the controller handle. You can see what I mean when I shine the LED
flash from my phone into the mirrors, it still transfers the light straight up out of the
grip. Interesting stuff. We saw the same feature in the GoPro 5 when
I tore that down. Now the rail on the joy con controller is
made out of plastic. Which at first I thought would be a bad design. But it turns out, this plastic joy con rail
isn’t the failure point. The connecting rail on the console itself
is made of metal. Which is rather refreshing when dealing with
a console entirely made of plastic. I do love how securely these controllers click
into place. Now its time to find the failure point. Trying to bend the body of the console was
futile. There was no breakage no matter which way
I was bending from. The center body and screen are very strong. Even the side joy con controllers are pretty
strong by themselves. It would be very difficult to break these
off on accident. But with enough deliberate force I was able
to snap off one side. The interesting part though was at the failure
part wasn’t the plastic rail, OR the metal rail. Ill show you what broke in a second. The important thing though is that the console
is still works completely. Which is good. Obviously. The part that broke were the 4 screw holes
holding the metal rail into the switch body. The rail itself is fine, the screws are fine,
but the inferior metal holding the screws to the body of the Switch ripped right out. Definitely not what I was expecting to happen. I’m pretty sure that wire at the bottom of
this rail is what charges the joy cons. So this side rail is definitely important. Luckily mine is still mostly connected. And that wire didnt rip. For the most part, I would classify this portable
console as durable. Even though I was able to deliberately break
mine, you shouldn’t have any issues with yours unless you are dropping it off your house,
or… someone extremely heavy sits on it… but as long as you get a screen protector
for that screen, the rest of the console should survive just fine. I can say that the Nintendo Switch is definitely
a successful successor to the Wii U. My twitter followers knew this video was coming
before anyone else. So make sure you follow me on Twitter, and
Instagram to stay up to date on my projects. Thanks for watching! Ill see you around.

, ,

Post navigation

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *